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2003 mazda 6 3.0 v6 motor pull from top yes its possible…

I have an 03 mazda six that is now more of a Frankenstein. With a 2007 v6 wit 44k on it and an 04 trans with 56k on it. And there is a lot of talk about motor swaps and how to get “it” out.
Well with that said on previous motor swaps that told me to go out the bottom. And having to remove large heavy parts and get realigned. I almost always now try and go out the top.
So this is a guide as to how I did it hope this helps anyone who has to pull a motor.
*not this is only a guide to help you in your adventure of motor /trans replacement follow @ your own risk*
So here we go
First I drove it up on ramps (yes the front bumper will rub abit)
Remove intake (cai)(or stock, airbox up to the throttle body.)
Remove batt. And batt. Tray
drain antifreeze
remove hood
jack car up and support with jack stands and remove front tires.
Remove plastic wheelwells. (carefull not to break the plastic clips)
Remove front bumper
And front “crumple zone” big piece of metal with Styrofoam on it you cant miss it.
Unhook the wire harness that runs along the rad. Support. It is easier if you remove the plastic lockers that hold the top of the rad inplace so you can snake the wires out from between the support and the top of the rad. Remove coolant tank on pass fenderwall / and hosses. Remove trans cooler lines and rad hoses to thermostat housing. Discharge ac lines (not essential especially if you don’t have a discharge pump.) mine was already discharged so I unbolted the lines. And removed the rad and rad support together after unbolting the power steering pump fluid tank. And using a bungie cord to hold it up if it tips upside dwn it will leak out the power steering fluid.
Remove the serpentine belt, there is a bolt that makes this difficult. see pic.*
Unbolt power steering pump and ac compressor
*now underneath *
Unbolt the exhaust right after the last cat. There is a large plate with 3 bolts, then unbolt the front downstream cat. And the brackets that bolt to it and the rear of the motor. And unbolt the rear precat from the infamous 180deg. Bend. Then remove both exhaust pipes to gain access to the rear of the motor un hook all wires from rear of motor ex. Alternator, ground wire on trans,
Support the bottom of the motor with a jack (I used a car jack and a piece of 2x12 18inch. Long to catch the motor and trans and onbolt the wishbone mount.
Next I unbolted the upper arm balljoint and the abs sensor( wire is short and wrapped around ) also removed the caliper and hung it from the spring up outta the way.
Next on the pass. Side unbolt the bracket on the axle holding it to the motor and popit out having the upper a arm unbolted allows you to pull it back just don’t separate the “joint” in the axle.
Repeat on driver side probly the harder of the two to pop the axle out I used a long prybar and taped it with a hammer to tap it out.
Next I used and old seatbelt cut out of a car and tied it to the front and rear manifolds and unbolted the driver side upper half of the trans mount. Hookd a chain to the part of the mount still on the trans and hooked that to the hook on the motor crane. With the seat belt. Yes it is strong enough to hold it. (got the seat belt idea while pullin a motor in a “u-pullit” and saw it being used by someone else.. )
Next unbolted the pass. Side motor mount.
And lift slightly this is the tricky part (need 2 ppl to avoid damage there is only about 2inch of clearance and not all at once. As you lift you should be able to get the axles to come out the rest of the way but don’t lift to far with them in or it will break something. Also be carefull the axle threads are sharp and may damage the seals. To make it easier you might wanna remove the axle nut from the hub but these are not reusable and you will need to get new nuts. Also its best to break them lose while the cars on the ground unless your using impact. But make sure to get the “bent part out” so It don’t mess up the axle threads.
*note don’t try to unbolt the trans and pull just the motor. Don’t ask just trust me from experience*
Make sure you get all vac lines off and wires off I unhookd the wire harness from the motor near the tb. And off the top of the trans there was 3plugs (atx) and a ground wire bolted to the trans.
As you lift the motor drop the wire harness that runs along the rad support down with the power steering pump and tank to clear the bottom of the motor. Also don’t forget the rear wire harness is bolted to the valve cover and needs to be removed, along with the fuel line. If not done so already. And the metal plate that the batt tray sits on (pita to get to the bolts. Remove the front bolt and loosen the rear bolt and rotate it rearward or remove it all together I did.
As you pull the motor up it will need to come forward and watch the clearances the ac lines on the pass fire wall are very close and easy to crush with the heavy motor. Once its clear its up up and away.
Installing it is nearly identical except for the axles remember to put them in b4 you get the motor all the way down in and the mounts hooked up or they are a pita. Unless you unbolted them from the hub then its smooth sailing.
**I did this in 3.5hrs. **
Any questions just ask I will do my best to answer them
Just figured I learned a lot of usefull info doin the swap and maybe I could help somebody out there about to take on this task. Its not as hard as it sounds.
I do have some pics (done this twice) but im not planning on posting them all however if you need a pic of a specific step let me know and I will see what I got in the camera. 8gb card means 2500 pics and it aint full yet
 
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Did someone hear say/think out the top wasn't possible? Seems like it be pretty straight forward.
 

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WOW! Impressive, but out the bottom is waaaaaaay easier if you have the right setup/tools. You don't have to remove any of the fender liners or the bumper. 30 minutes to drop the subframe with the entire suspension and steering rack and another 30 minutes to disconnect and lower the engine and tranny out. Remember the engine/tranny was probably installed in less than 4 minutes from the bottom by one or two guys on an assembly line somewhere and the same is true for the subframe/suspension module. The trick is getting the entire car at least 16 inches off the ground and perfectly level.
Still, this is a great write up for those who choose or need to go this route. THANKS.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just wanted to let it be known it is POSSIBLE. actually id rather not get under a car that is 16inchs+ off the ground. but thats just me.. id rather be standing then laying on the ground.... *note the 2nd time i pulled the motor i did it in my dirt driveway..
 

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I just thought someone might have said it wasn't. Always interesting the comments and things you see on 'Net forums. :)
 
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