The subframe is held in at 4 corners by a single 18mm nut. You will need a deepwell socket and a 12 inch extension. Or you can use a dremel to cut just enough of the tip off. This allows you to use a standard 1/2 drive 18mm socket.
By the way. The nut is almost complety unscrewed. When attaching or removing the control arms you need clearance so you can insert a socket and extension into the frame. Having the frame as low as it can go ...is the way to go lol View attachment 238811View attachment 238812
And no dr feelgood. Ive only replaced a few parts in the rear. (Shocks ,toe control arm, camber arm, and sway bar end links) i took the car in to get inspected and it failed due to a rusted out rear subframe. Im currently looking everywhere for a replacement. Unfortunately, every single one i find is riddled with rot and rust. Mazda had a recall on the front subframe due to the same issues. Its the same type of steel and the same shitty primer that is causing the problems.
I did try and take the used rear LCA's to a local shop to see if the bushings i picked out could be pressed in. They refused ...said "the metal is to thin"
So now i have a shelf of new parts that may or may not work.
The vibration is still there......its most pronounced at 45-55 mph. Im thinking its the taper bore in either the upper ball joint mount or the tie rod end mount. Both joints came apart without a press. And when torqued to specs. The hole for the cotter pin is at least a quarter inch past the top of the castle nut.
Im just now getting started on the rear subframe. Im going to drop the lower control arms with the coil springs. Then im hoping to basically remove it with almost everything attached. Id rather unbolt everything when its not under a car supported by jackstands.
I am looking for lowering springs for my 2009 Mazda 6 (3.7L V6). I came across the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs 5550.140 which is designed for the 2.5L 4 cyl. However, the model designed for the 3.7L V6 (5551.140) was discontinued years ago and can't be found.
I am wondering how...
I've had my 2nd gen V6 lowered on Autoexe springs (with stock shocks) for several years now but there is still a significant wheel gap on the rear compared to the front. What is the best way to lower the rear suspension so that I can decrease the wheel gap?
The car is on 2014 19" stock rims...
I'm hoping you might be able to offer some suggestions.
My 2009 6 GT has a "crackle" sensation sporadically in the steering wheel. I don't hear any clunking or feel anything loose, just the odd sensation in the wheel. Sorry I can't be any more descriptive.
I've already had the tie rods...
I just replaced the lower and upper control arms. Now for some reason the sway bar is rubbing against the control arm. I had to lower the subframe a smidge to get the front bolt out but, I don't see how that could have caused this?????? I'm really at a loss here....
My 2010 Mazda 6 was starting to make a wheel bearing noise on the left side. The right side did the same thing a few years ago so I knew what it was right away. I took it to the shop and the mechanic agreed and changed the wheel bearing. While there he also changed a torn inner CV boot also on...