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Discussion Starter #23
Duh... you have to put in the subframe reinforcement plates.
The subframe is held in at 4 corners by a single 18mm nut. You will need a deepwell socket and a 12 inch extension. Or you can use a dremel to cut just enough of the tip off. This allows you to use a standard 1/2 drive 18mm socket.

By the way. The nut is almost complety unscrewed. When attaching or removing the control arms you need clearance so you can insert a socket and extension into the frame. Having the frame as low as it can go ...is the way to go lol
View attachment 238811 View attachment 238812
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Man im trying to edit my posts and add pictures. Sorry everyone reading this. Im literally posting as i go.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
And no dr feelgood. Ive only replaced a few parts in the rear. (Shocks ,toe control arm, camber arm, and sway bar end links) i took the car in to get inspected and it failed due to a rusted out rear subframe. Im currently looking everywhere for a replacement. Unfortunately, every single one i find is riddled with rot and rust. Mazda had a recall on the front subframe due to the same issues. Its the same type of steel and the same shitty primer that is causing the problems.
I did try and take the used rear LCA's to a local shop to see if the bushings i picked out could be pressed in. They refused ...said "the metal is to thin"
So now i have a shelf of new parts that may or may not work. 15776566447602143938732864694276.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I had to make my own subframe bushing . It was missing and i dont have time to wait for a replacement. I think it will work! One large washer and 3 rubber washers cut to size. 15776568409775172753987643458987.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The hub can go on now. The top ball joint is a 15mm and the bottom studs are a 21mm 15776597459308752291413943029108.jpg 15776597888598952547225484294142.jpg

Ziptie your caliper to the upper control arm to keep weight off the rubber line.
 

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Good tip for the zip ties and about flash rusting. This reminds me, I forgot to spray WD-40 on the bolts of the battery frame that I cleaned a couple of days ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
You know what works better for battery terminals then wd40? PAM ! It sounds crazy but, its non conductive and the film lasts longer then wd40
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The vibration is still there......its most pronounced at 45-55 mph. Im thinking its the taper bore in either the upper ball joint mount or the tie rod end mount. Both joints came apart without a press. And when torqued to specs. The hole for the cotter pin is at least a quarter inch past the top of the castle nut.
 

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Yeah, most likely the taper bore in the tie rod end mount I'd think. Did you get right in the end?
Thanks for sharing all your progress and pics its very interesting to follow!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yes the bore was slightly tapered. Anyone else that rode in the car didnt notice it. But it was driving me crazy. A little jb wield on the taper did the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Im just now getting started on the rear subframe. Im going to drop the lower control arms with the coil springs. Then im hoping to basically remove it with almost everything attached. Id rather unbolt everything when its not under a car supported by jackstands. 15788600035703104963951050930975.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I changed my mind. Im going to leave the trailing arm attached to the car. I can leave the brake and hub attached to the shock. 15788676199194085258144809629694.jpg 15788676569744190428428761975915.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Boggles my mind that mazda recalled the front subframe for rust. Yet, not the rear....

I hope mazda learned how to prevent rust 15788696267028843017654215520634.jpg 15788696459708470818957607100636.jpg . My wife has a 2018 mazda 3. Its the best handling car ive ever drove. And thats including the various bmw e46's ive had.

(If you can maintain a bmw, you can fix anything lol)
 
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