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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!! I'm working on a 2010 6 with 200 thousand miles. The car runs excellent, the engine and transmission never skip a beat (transmission fluid is ugly though). Anyway the suspension is all original and it ALL needs replacing.
My question to everyone is what bushings can I press in and what has to be bought as a whole piece? The front suspension needs lower control arms , upper control arms, ball joints and struts. The rear is in worse shape. It looks like I'm going to have to replace everything, It's all rusted to hell and back and pieces of rubber are sticking out of the bushings.
On rockauto my total bill is already over 500 without adding shocks,struts and rear LCA'S in. I'd like to at least press in new bushings to the rear lower control arms because they are over a 100$ a piece as a whole unit.
Has anyone ever done this complete of a overhaul ? Is it even worth it with 206,000 miles? The car is in excellent shape body wise.
 

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On rockauto my total bill is already over 500 without adding shocks,struts and rear LCA'S in. I'd like to at least press in new bushings to the rear lower control arms because they are over a 100$ a piece as a whole unit.
Has anyone ever done this complete of a overhaul ? Is it even worth it with 206,000 miles? The car is in excellent shape body wise.
The value and "if it's worth it" is completely up to you. My reasoning goes like this. If I am putting $800 into the car to have completely new suspension in the front and rear (plus replacing that trans fluid), that is less than three car payments, and having done it, the car feels new. If I can reasonably expect the vehicle to last another year then that is almost $3000 I'm saving in car payments.

As far as pressing bushings in the cost is almost the same (at least it was with my 2004) and the time to do it is pretty substantial. If you wanted to make changes, like all urethane, those can be purchased and installed but they are at least triple the price of buying replacement arms. Urethane is tough in a daily driver, (except the sway bars which I would do in urethane).

When you do it, be sure to tighten everything with all the suspension at its normal ride height.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I ended up doing everything except the rear control arms and trailing arms. I couldn't locate the bushing that goes into the rear hub and connects to the control arm.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I ended up doing everything except the rear control arms and trailing arms. I couldn't locate the bushing that goes into the rear hub and connects to the control arm.
So, you decided to go with bushings and press them in?
Whichever way you went it is going to feel amazing!
It made me happy to drive mine another half-decade no sweat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I figured I would update this.. I redid everything. Except the rear lower control arm bushings and trailing arms (cant locate replacments).
The car is almost like new... Except the 1.6 degrees of negative camber (rear) that the alignment shop says is normal (bullshit).
I need new tires but I'm not throwing money away until I solve this issue. I would like to find bushings that fit...
 

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I figured I would update this.. I redid everything. Except the rear lower control arm bushings and trailing arms (cant locate replacments).
The car is almost like new... Except the 1.6 degrees of negative camber (rear) that the alignment shop says is normal (bullshit).
I need new tires but I'm not throwing money away until I solve this issue. I would like to find bushings that fit...
If I may ask, do you have pictures of all the parts that you replaced? I hope you don't mind posting it.
 

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I sure can! I had to tear it all down a day ago. Ill snap some pictures as i reassemble everything.
Thank you for updating us! I'm very much interested on the pictures. I hope you can do a step-by-step guide.

I think what I'm asking is an overkill. Just lots and lots of pictures will do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No problem whatsoever. Here is a picture of what im dealing with lol. When i get home ill start the process of reassembly.
15775472957736681369433455035697.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im going to post pictures as i reassemble everything. Word to the wise...keep all your nuts and bolts seperated. Wash your undercarriage with a strong degreaser before starting. Its soo much easier to work when your not covered in grease.

Screenshot_20191228-151736_Gallery.jpg 20191228_152146.jpg 20191228_152724.jpg 20191228_155502.jpg 20191228_162119.jpg 20191228_165510.jpg 20191228_164724.jpg 20191228_165428.jpg 20191228_154303.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The subframe is held in at 4 corners by a single 18mm nut. You will need a deepwell socket and a 12 inch extension. Or you can use a dremel to cut just enough of the tip off. This allows you to use a standard 1/2 drive 18mm socket.

By the way. The nut is almost complety unscrewed. When attaching or removing the control arms you need clearance so you can insert a socket and extension into the frame. Having the frame as low as it can go ...is the way to go lol
15775774681571976975115946100693.jpg 15775777297991512936325308234743.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know my springs are saggy. So in order to set the preload for the front control arm bushing. I climbed under the car *on a level driveway*and marked it with a piece of tape and a fine point sharpie. This allows me to set the control arm in the right position, before i torque the front bolt. 15775784484784703692177619039208.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Using that method you could reattach the control arms with the subframe on the floor. I didnt do it that way, because that would have put it over the weight limit of what i thought i could handle myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
A game changer for rusty chassis bolts lol. It took 20 minutes and a thorough rinse with hot water. Afterwards i sprayed alcohol on them to reduce flash rusting. (Please spray the alcohol OUTSIDE) Kerosine heaters and fumes do not mix well...

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