Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone!! I'm working on a 2010 6 with 200 thousand miles. The car runs excellent, the engine and transmission never skip a beat (transmission fluid is ugly though). Anyway the suspension is all original and it ALL needs replacing.
My question to everyone is what bushings can I press in and what has to be bought as a whole piece? The front suspension needs lower control arms , upper control arms, ball joints and struts. The rear is in worse shape. It looks like I'm going to have to replace everything, It's all rusted to hell and back and pieces of rubber are sticking out of the bushings.
On rockauto my total bill is already over 500 without adding shocks,struts and rear LCA'S in. I'd like to at least press in new bushings to the rear lower control arms because they are over a 100$ a piece as a whole unit.
Has anyone ever done this complete of a overhaul ? Is it even worth it with 206,000 miles? The car is in excellent shape body wise.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
On rockauto my total bill is already over 500 without adding shocks,struts and rear LCA'S in. I'd like to at least press in new bushings to the rear lower control arms because they are over a 100$ a piece as a whole unit.
Has anyone ever done this complete of a overhaul ? Is it even worth it with 206,000 miles? The car is in excellent shape body wise.
The value and "if it's worth it" is completely up to you. My reasoning goes like this. If I am putting $800 into the car to have completely new suspension in the front and rear (plus replacing that trans fluid), that is less than three car payments, and having done it, the car feels new. If I can reasonably expect the vehicle to last another year then that is almost $3000 I'm saving in car payments.

As far as pressing bushings in the cost is almost the same (at least it was with my 2004) and the time to do it is pretty substantial. If you wanted to make changes, like all urethane, those can be purchased and installed but they are at least triple the price of buying replacement arms. Urethane is tough in a daily driver, (except the sway bars which I would do in urethane).

When you do it, be sure to tighten everything with all the suspension at its normal ride height.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I ended up doing everything except the rear control arms and trailing arms. I couldn't locate the bushing that goes into the rear hub and connects to the control arm.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Thanks for the reply. I ended up doing everything except the rear control arms and trailing arms. I couldn't locate the bushing that goes into the rear hub and connects to the control arm.
So, you decided to go with bushings and press them in?
Whichever way you went it is going to feel amazing!
It made me happy to drive mine another half-decade no sweat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I figured I would update this.. I redid everything. Except the rear lower control arm bushings and trailing arms (cant locate replacments).
The car is almost like new... Except the 1.6 degrees of negative camber (rear) that the alignment shop says is normal (bullshit).
I need new tires but I'm not throwing money away until I solve this issue. I would like to find bushings that fit...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
I figured I would update this.. I redid everything. Except the rear lower control arm bushings and trailing arms (cant locate replacments).
The car is almost like new... Except the 1.6 degrees of negative camber (rear) that the alignment shop says is normal (bullshit).
I need new tires but I'm not throwing money away until I solve this issue. I would like to find bushings that fit...
If I may ask, do you have pictures of all the parts that you replaced? I hope you don't mind posting it.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top