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I have 2007 2.3 liter automatic mazda 6 and I am planning to change the transmission fluid soon. But my question is how much fluid I should buy and ask for any advice?
I was reading some forums the other day and they talked about not being able to drain all fluid out due to the torque converter. From reading my Haynes manual I would seem I don't have a torque converter. So final question, if I was to drop the transmission oil pan would that in turn drain all 8.6 quarts? (and yes I plan to get all the fluid out of the lines best I can by rigging a bicycle pump to the inlet line). Never done this before and the only knowledge I have is from reading the Haynes manual and browsing the forums but know one talks about the same vehicle as mine.
 

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Do not mean to be rude , but why not have the dealer change it. The right amount of the right fluid and also a filter (I believe) will be changed and warranted.(Work will be warranted). A new transmission is over $4k . It cost me about $150 for my 2006 I-4 , 5 speed oil change, at the dealer. Your transmission does have a torque converter, by the way. Of course its your call. Oldvet
 

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I have 2007 2.3 liter automatic mazda 6 and I am planning to change the transmission fluid soon. But my question is how much fluid I should buy and ask for any advice?
I bought 12Qts off Amazon pretty cheap. You can shop around and do the same though - I was in a bit of a jam and had a amazon GC I had to use.

I was reading some forums the other day and they talked about not being able to drain all fluid out due to the torque converter. From reading my Haynes manual I would seem I don't have a torque converter.
We do have a torque converter. I am fairly certain nearly all AT cars do. I would not like to be held and quoted to that though.


So final question, if I was to drop the transmission oil pan would that in turn drain all 8.6 quarts? (and yes I plan to get all the fluid out of the lines best I can by rigging a bicycle pump to the inlet line). Never done this before and the only knowledge I have is from reading the Haynes manual and browsing the forums but know one talks about the same vehicle as mine.
I would drain and fill from the plug. You get about 3.6-3.8Qt of fluid out. Drive around about two weeks and do the same. Rinse, lather, repeat until you have beautiful red fluid.

I would advise against dropping the pan. 1- the bolts are held on by the power of Thor. 2- there really is no serviceable filter - which kinda defeats the purpose of dropping the pan. 3- It is extremely messy.


Many many people around here would recommend you do the drain and fill method. But if your heart is set on dropping the pan I am sure you can find a post about it somewhere. Goodluck!
 

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I would advise against dropping the pan. 1- the bolts are held on by the power of Thor. 2- there really is no serviceable filter - which kinda defeats the purpose of dropping the pan. 3- It is extremely messy.


Many many people around here would recommend you do the drain and fill method. But if your heart is set on dropping the pan I am sure you can find a post about it somewhere. Goodluck!
Fugure I'd bring this back up in case anybody else ever stumbled across it during an internet search like I did.

There is in fact a serviceable filter inside the transaxle and it can in fact become clogged and restrict flow after time. If the fluid becomes too restricted, it can cause the trans fluid temp to climb and trigger the "AT" light to come on.

Dropping the pan is not a hard task. You need to take your time and pay close attention to what you're doing. 1st and foremost, drain it via drainplug...this will cut way back on any mess. There are a lot of bolts that hold the pan on. The pan is sealed with silicone from the factory instead of a gasket. You can use a flat-blade screw driver or equivalent to pry the pan away from the trans.

Once loose, the pan will have to be twisted and turned to maneuver it clear of the frame and transaxle. Putting it back is equally as fun. There's a round magnet stuck to the inside of the pan that will be covered in a metallic sludge. It needs to be removed and cleaned. You can clean the pan however you feel is easiest. Degreaser and water works, wiping with those Scott's blue shop towels works, too.

Also remove any silicon residue from the pan lip and also the mounting flange of the transmission. The filter just pulls straight down...about a pint of fluid it gush out behind it. New filter simply pushes back in. There's a small tab with a wire that also attaches to the bottom of the filter. It is easily pulled out and pushes back into the new filter.

The filter kit I got from Advance Auto was a Trans King and it included a rubber gasket. It's personal preference whether to use it or run a bead of silicone like the factory did...however, the silicone method will be harder due to having to make contact with the trans when maneuvering the pan back into place. I chose the gasket instead.

Mine ended up holding right at 4 quarts to get the level back to the full mark on the dipstick. I used Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle full synthetic ATF to refill. It is compatible with Mazda M-V according to their website.
 

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Fugure I'd bring this back up in case anybody else ever stumbled across it during an internet search like I did.



There is in fact a serviceable filter inside the transaxle and it can in fact become clogged and restrict flow after time. If the fluid becomes too restricted, it can cause the trans fluid temp to climb and trigger the "AT" light to come on.



Dropping the pan is not a hard task. You need to take your time and pay close attention to what you're doing. 1st and foremost, drain it via drainplug...this will cut way back on any mess. There are a lot of bolts that hold the pan on. The pan is sealed with silicone from the factory instead of a gasket. You can use a flat-blade screw driver or equivalent to pry the pan away from the trans.



Once loose, the pan will have to be twisted and turned to maneuver it clear of the frame and transaxle. Putting it back is equally as fun. There's a round magnet stuck to the inside of the pan that will be covered in a metallic sludge. It needs to be removed and cleaned. You can clean the pan however you feel is easiest. Degreaser and water works, wiping with those Scott's blue shop towels works, too.



Also remove any silicon residue from the pan lip and also the mounting flange of the transmission. The filter just pulls straight down...about a pint of fluid it gush out behind it. New filter simply pushes back in. There's a small tab with a wire that also attaches to the bottom of the filter. It is easily pulled out and pushes back into the new filter.



The filter kit I got from Advance Auto was a Trans King and it included a rubber gasket. It's personal preference whether to use it or run a bead of silicone like the factory did...however, the silicone method will be harder due to having to make contact with the trans when maneuvering the pan back into place. I chose the gasket instead.



Mine ended up holding right at 4 quarts to get the level back to the full mark on the dipstick. I used Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle full synthetic ATF to refill. It is compatible with Mazda M-V according to their website.
Interested in changing the filter in my 07 auto 3.0L V6. is this process the same for mine? if so, do you have a link to the filter you used?

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Interested in changing the filter in my 07 auto 3.0L V6. is this process the same for mine? if so, do you have a link to the filter you used?

Hello there. If you have the JA5A-EL "Jatco" 5-speeed automatic then there is no filter for you to replace (apart fro dropping the transaxle and opening the case). The 4-speed auto has a serviceable filter and I do not know about the 6-speed "Aisin" unit.


I drained my fluid from the drain plug into a dollar pitcher. I marked the level and refilled the same amount back through the dipstick using Mobil MV formula. I started the car and put the selector in Drive for 30 sec and then N for 30 sec then R for 30 sec. I did this 3 times then turned the engine off and drained. I repeated the process 3x total and on the last time the fluid was almost clear red. I think I used around 10 quarts.
I currently drain and refill every 30,000 mi and I use an inline trans filter before the cooler which I replace annually..


If you have a sedan then other than clean fluid the best thing you can do is make sure it does not over heat. A small oil cooler may be a good step down the road.
 

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Hello there. If you have the JA5A-EL "Jatco" 5-speeed automatic then there is no filter for you to replace (apart fro dropping the transaxle and opening the case). The 4-speed auto has a serviceable filter and I do not know about the 6-speed "Aisin" unit.


I drained my fluid from the drain plug into a dollar pitcher. I marked the level and refilled the same amount back through the dipstick using Mobil MV formula. I started the car and put the selector in Drive for 30 sec and then N for 30 sec then R for 30 sec. I did this 3 times then turned the engine off and drained. I repeated the process 3x total and on the last time the fluid was almost clear red. I think I used around 10 quarts.
I currently drain and refill every 30,000 mi and I use an inline trans filter before the cooler which I replace annually..


If you have a sedan then other than clean fluid the best thing you can do is make sure it does not over heat. A small oil cooler may be a good step down the road.
yeah unfortunately I have the Aisin 6speed, thats why I was wondering

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The Aisin has a filter in the "pan" but its vertically mounted on the front of the trans. I have a filter for it but its more strainer than anything. One day I plan to change it but it looks like a messy job. You can find the filter at Rockauto
 

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video says its the FW6A, so that's why I ask
Ah yes, good point.
I pulled up some factory service manuals for the two and they do look pretty different. Based on that I would say that it does not apply but I do not have first hand experience.

 

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The Aisin has a filter in the "pan" but its vertically mounted on the front of the trans. I have a filter for it but its more strainer than anything. One day I plan to change it but it looks like a messy job. You can find the filter at Rockauto


Interesting, I’ve never looked that far into it because everything I found said it was impossible to change without disassembling the ATX. Now I’m curious next time I change my fluid I have to take that cover off and investigate lol


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Interesting, I’ve never looked that far into it because everything I found said it was impossible to change without disassembling the ATX. Now I’m curious next time I change my fluid I have to take that cover off and investigate lol


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@bluedevil6 You are right. I just looked up the filter in the AW6A-EL service manual. The filter comes off the front pump, so yeah to change it you need to disassemble the trans.
 

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@bluedevil6 You are right. I just looked up the filter in the AW6A-EL service manual. The filter comes off the front pump, so yeah to change it you need to disassemble the trans.
Yeeaaah... Forget that!

Looks like I'll just live with the dump and fill method, and quite happily too! ;)

I would like to know about the in-line filter @DrFeelGood uses. I believe it was bluedevil6 who mentioned in another thread that he had problems with flow when using an in-line filter. I have the parts and equipment to install an ATF cooler, just haven't found enough time to do it yet, but March is looking good. :)
 

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@bluedevil6 You are right. I just looked up the filter in the AW6A-EL service manual. The filter comes off the front pump, so yeah to change it you need to disassemble the trans.


Well damn. I got hopeful there.

Yes @Kalalicious it was me that said that, I had a Magnafine filter on mine I took it off to install my trans temp gauge with the intention to put it back on in a different location, but when I test drove it to check for leaks I found that the car shifted much quicker and smoother without it.


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Yeeaaah... Forget that!

Looks like I'll just live with the dump and fill method, and quite happily too! ;)

I would like to know about the in-line filter @DrFeelGood uses. I believe it was bluedevil6 who mentioned in another thread that he had problems with flow when using an in-line filter. I have the parts and equipment to install an ATF cooler, just haven't found enough time to do it yet, but March is looking good. :)
Maybe look into the Magnefine filters?
 
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