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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone please help me out? I have an 06 mazda 6 3.0L that will crank, but the engine won't start! Here's some info:
-car has about 190k miles on it
-overheated in Decmeber, so I replaced the water pump, radiator, and a few cracked hoses
-serpentine belt a little loose because of an oil leak (valve cover gaskets need changing)
- ALL of the spark plugs, coil packs, and ignition wires have been replaced the day before the car stopped starting
-CEL is on, but no codes or pending codes!

I had started to notice white smoke out of my exhaust but only at an idle, and then I could see that the temperature gauge would start to rise. I checked the overflow and it seems like the coolant wasn't circulating? Once it cooled I took the overflow cap off and tried starting the car, the coolant started gurgling and it was trying to come out of the cap hole. My oil has no milky color and the coolant isn't discolored at all. I've checked my PCV and it was fine. My EGR seems fine too. I took the crankshaft sensor out but that also seems fine. I'm at a loss with this car as I've dumped my WHOLE tax return into it. I'm not sure what else to do. Any info would help so much! Any ideas?
 

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I wonder what that check engine light means?

A silly question, do you have fuel? If you have, the fuel pump might not be delivering the correct pressure. This reminds me our Isuzu back then, it won't start when the tank is half empty. The fuel filter becomes clogged because of a very dirty tank.

Let's wait for the others who have a better idea in relation to everything you have mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wonder what that check engine light means?

A silly question, do you have fuel? If you have, the fuel pump might not be delivering the correct pressure. This reminds me our Isuzu back then, it won't start when the tank is half empty. The fuel filter becomes clogged because of a very dirty tank.

Let's wait for the others who have a better idea in relation to everything you have mentioned.
It has a full tank because I filled it up the day before. I'm not sure if it's getting the correct pressure or not, but there is a fuel smell from the engine bay when I try to start the car. And my obd2 reader didn't find any codes, but I've read online that there has to be a code and maybe my reader isn't capable of reading the codes that are causing the CEL.
 

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Does it backfire when you crank it?
 

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Did you get the correct WP? Apparently the aftermarket ones dont have the proper bypass valve or something and you need to get the one direct from Mazda or youll have issues. Also, my WP dying lead to what i believe were cam gear(s) loosing torque or chain tensioners going bad, which also may indicate a bad oil pump. Regardless, it wont start if its out of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you get the correct WP? Apparently the aftermarket ones dont have the proper bypass valve or something and you need to get the one direct from Mazda or youll have issues. Also, my WP dying lead to what i believe were cam gear(s) loosing torque or chain tensioners going bad, which also may indicate a bad oil pump. Regardless, it wont start if its out of time.
I'm assuming you mean the water pump? I got it from Amazon I think. I have never heard of any problems with aftermarket pumps, but that's definently something I'll do some more research on! Since I've been reading up on possible issues for my current situation I've started to learn of a few common problems I'd never heard of with the Mazda 6. But when you installed the aftermarket pump, how long until you noticed it causing bad things to happen? This water pump has been in since January. And I started to have troubles with it starting because of spark plugs/wires and I finally got new ones about a week and a half ago and now its stopped starting.
 

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Did the car ever start with the new wire harness and coils?
If no, put back the old one and try again.
 

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Could someone please help me out? I have an 06 mazda 6 3.0L that will crank, but the engine won't start! Here's some info:
-car has about 190k miles on it
-overheated in Decmeber, so I replaced the water pump, radiator, and a few cracked hoses
-serpentine belt a little loose because of an oil leak (valve cover gaskets need changing)
- ALL of the spark plugs, coil packs, and ignition wires have been replaced the day before the car stopped starting
-CEL is on, but no codes or pending codes!

I had started to notice white smoke out of my exhaust but only at an idle, and then I could see that the temperature gauge would start to rise. I checked the overflow and it seems like the coolant wasn't circulating? Once it cooled I took the overflow cap off and tried starting the car, the coolant started gurgling and it was trying to come out of the cap hole. My oil has no milky color and the coolant isn't discolored at all. I've checked my PCV and it was fine. My EGR seems fine too. I took the crankshaft sensor out but that also seems fine. I'm at a loss with this car as I've dumped my WHOLE tax return into it. I'm not sure what else to do. Any info would help so much! Any ideas?
If your car gurgles immediately upon running and while it is cold that says a few things. Your thermostat should be closed so the engine shouldn't be circulating coolant; it's only warming up the coolant in the water jacket. If your engine got hot enough to warp things (which sounds likely to me) then it could do this a few different ways one of which would be between the combustion chamber and water jacket. If that happens the combustion will partially expel into the coolant and will off-gas out the radiator cap when it's removed.
Any decent mechanic can diagnose that for you. You can even do it yourself, if so inclined:
 

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You need 3 basic things to start an engine.

Verify that you have SPARK, FUEL, AIR
Check each individual system for certain. Step by step.

Make sure spark gap is proper to OEM spec. Fuses, Relays all good. Check all of your grounds. Good Grounds is VERY important.

Do compression test. Either electronically or mechanically. If it overheated severely enough, warp heads could cause no starts

Make sure timing chain is intact.

Bad crank sensor will cause issues too.


Try disconnecting the MAF and see if it runs

Check Upstream O2


Find out what those Codes are!
There’s more, but start attacking those..



(╭☞ ಠ ͜つ ಠ )╭☞ r=1+sinθ
 
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