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I've read a few posts re: trans problems, coolers, etc., on V-6/ 3L cars but they seem to pertain to '05 or earlier cars. My wife has 2006 Mazda 6S that I dont drive often. I noticed the last few times I drove it that it sometimes shifts hard - seems to happen more when its under load like merging onto a highway, etc - Today I drove the car and as I was merging and getting up to speed (not foot to the floor but getting on it) the trans seemed to slip out of 5th or 6th gear and into neutral. I put it into manual and downshifted to 4th and it went into a drive gear then put it back to auto and it was OK. Is this the start of something baaaadddd?? :confused:
 

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Mine did that like twice not longer after I got the car and never did it again. Can't tell you what it was....

I'd be getting the fluid changed, and I'd look at adding LubeGuard. I now add LubeGuard red each time I change my fluid and I firmly believe it can only help.

And make certain if anyone changes the fluid that they read what fluid is called for on the dipstick! It is not necessarily a Mercon fluid; it may be Toyota T-IV
 

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could you get it to happen again if you tried?
 

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Mazda 6S ATX defect

I have exactly the same problem in an '05 Mazda 6S. Aisin makes the ATX 6 speed transmission. It is known as AW6A-EL. Mazda knows about the problem, see their Technical Service Bulletin 05-016/06. It states "Slippage (engine run up) or shock when depressing the accelerator fully (kick-down) from steady driving in 4th, 5th or 6th gear." Further: "Due to excessive wear to the valve guide hole on modulator valve no. 2 (which controls C2 clutch pressure), the C2 clutch pressure becomes too low. The length of the modulator valve guide has been extended at mass-production." This last statement I read as a design or production flaw. You need a new Control Valve Body (for mine part# AW10-19-750). Retail cost is $1,320, but you can get one from Walker Mazda In WA for $950 plus shipping. Or you can ship yours to Valve Body Rebuilders (email: [email protected]). They quoted $690 plus shipping. Try pressuring Mazda to cover it, this really deserves to be a "hidden recall" if not a full recall. That is what I am doing now. The more of us there are after them, the more likely they will respond, try Customer Assistance 800-222-5500 X 1145. Good luck.
 

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Mazda 6s ATX defect

I forgot to mention the work around. You have stumbled on it already. Shift manually, particularly 4th - 6th gears. Before accelerating downshift first (one or two gears), then apply as much throttle as you want. Shift normally between 2000 and 3000 rpm when driving casually. This seems to work, but if there is much metal floating around in the ATX you may wind up needing an entire new unit.

Also check the fluid level and color. If you see metal particles on the fluid you wipe off the dipstick, park it, until you can fix it.

When I get a chance I'm posting to NHTSA, random selection of neutral with the engine racing is a hazard, particularly if you need power to avoid an accident, or at all.
 

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I have this problem also. Recently, when I step on the gas to accelerate it seems to go on neutral. I have to let go of the gas for the transmission to go back to normal. This happens between 5th & 6th gears for me. I usually use the sport shift to control my driving so that I don't accidentally hit the gas too much. I brought this to the dealership and I am trying to push Mazda to cover this. They said it's a Control Valve Body and Mazda has remanufactured an updated version of it. I have a 2006 with only 80k. I keep up with maintenance and I don't drive it hard. Dealership says this could cost up to $2k to fix this problem.
 

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Kinda sounds like Mazda has a problem with a sticking valve in the valve body. I hope they fixed the problem with the updated version. I dont have much experience with newer electronic Transmissions but i know in the older trans.'s it wasnt hard to install Valve Body Kits. As long as you know how to read you could do it. Lots of the kits prolonged friction material life by decreasing slippage but Shifts harder and increased pressures, which might keep potentially sticking valves from sticking (i'm guessing). maybe it would be worth looking into for these ATX's unless you really want to keep your smooth shifts. If your looking for quicker harder shifts you may really want to look into it. Blocking accumulators realy help that too, i know this for sure in the old THM350's and 400's. Then again I still dont know if they even offer kits for our Valve Bodies yet.
 
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