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Discussion Starter #1
On the way to work this morning, which means on a closed, private road with a professional driver do not try this at home, I used my G-force meter to measure 0-60 and 1/4 mile times and was surprised by the results. The run to 60 took 5.40 seconds while the quarter came in 13.83 seconds at 99.6 m.p.h. :drive:
This is a bone stock MSP6 with 380 miles on the odometer and an overwieght load in the driver's seat!! The ambient temperature was 42 °F for reference purposes, with high (for the desert) humidity. I know that C & D got it to 60 in 5.4, but I didn't think I could duplicate that performance. Typically, with my other vehicles, I thought the G-meter was a little conservative, so these numbers really surprised me. Anyone else having similar results?
 

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I've always heard the the Gtech overestimates on 0-60 and 1/4 mile times. Meaning it shows that you went faster than you actually did. The only way to really test it is on a closed 1/4 mile drag strip.
 

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G-tech's are darn accurate...
I've been on various forums where people have compared them to drag strips and their results always have showed they are very close.

LIP
 

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On the way to work this morning, which means on a closed, private road with a professional driver do not try this at home, I used my G-force meter to measure 0-60 and 1/4 mile times and was surprised by the results. The run to 60 took 5.40 seconds while the quarter came in 13.83 seconds at 99.6 m.p.h. :drive:
This is a bone stock MSP6 with 380 miles on the odometer and an overwieght load in the driver's seat!! The ambient temperature was 42 °F for reference purposes, with high (for the desert) humidity. I know that C & D got it to 60 in 5.4, but I didn't think I could duplicate that performance. Typically, with my other vehicles, I thought the G-meter was a little conservative, so these numbers really surprised me. Anyone else having similar results?
[/b]
Sounds about right. :D
 

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some magazines use a simmaliar product to test the cars .
 

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On the way to work this morning, which means on a closed, private road with a professional driver do not try this at home, I used my G-force meter to measure 0-60 and 1/4 mile times and was surprised by the results. The run to 60 took 5.40 seconds while the quarter came in 13.83 seconds at 99.6 m.p.h. :drive:
This is a bone stock MSP6 with 380 miles on the odometer and an overwieght load in the driver's seat!! The ambient temperature was 42 °F for reference purposes, with high (for the desert) humidity. I know that C & D got it to 60 in 5.4, but I didn't think I could duplicate that performance. Typically, with my other vehicles, I thought the G-meter was a little conservative, so these numbers really surprised me. Anyone else having similar results?
[/b]
You mean like this? http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=48064&st=15

Look for my post
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I feathered it out around 4 grand, TCS off, with a boat-load of throttle to follow. The tires scratched ever so slightly, followed by a slight bog and a whole lot of acceleration. 1-2 and 2-3 were hit hard, full throttle as well. The car doesn't respond very well to off-throttle upshifts, too much lag.

The next question is, what'r the modded cars doing?
 

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Don't know yet. I want to get my exhaust and some better wheels/tires.
Already have the HKS BOV and CP-E CAI.
 

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I totally believe the timeslips and 0-60 times listed thus-far. When launching this car, it tears out of the hole like a bat outta hell. I've driven many *fast* cars and motorcycles for comparison, and I still can say my Speed pulls hard and is quick, even inhibited with two shifts to 60 MPH.

Mid-high 13's and low-mid 5 second 0-60 MPH runs for a $29K, heavy, comfy, and airbag stuffed 4-cyl sedan is fantastic. 10 years ago this was serious muscle/sports car territory. The '97 320 HP AWD Mitsu 3KGT VR-4 was recorded 0-60 in 4.8 and 13.6 @ a little over 100 MPH by Motortrend.

That's taking into consideration that it was a coupe with a toddler backseat and even in '97 it was a $45K car. The caliber of performance to price not to mention practicality and value of cars these days is incredible. Especially considering emissions requirements and rising gas prices.
 

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I believe it and am dying to hit the track for my first time to find out what she will do. Of course it will take a while before I can drive the thing well :)
 

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I feathered it out around 4 grand, TCS off, with a boat-load of throttle to follow. The tires scratched ever so slightly, followed by a slight bog and a whole lot of acceleration. 1-2 and 2-3 were hit hard, full throttle as well. The car doesn't respond very well to off-throttle upshifts, too much lag.

Full throttle shifting? Seriously? Don't you hit the rev limiter?
 

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Shouldnt. These cars fall flat around 5k so youve got a big area before you hit the rev limiter.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The car is just hitting the rev limiter as it's getting back under load. By shifting quickly enough, it doesn't seem to be a problem. Also, the rev limiter on this car, or so it seems, is "soft". Which is to say, some cars decelerate the engine violently at fuel cut-off, but this one doesn't. I will admit that from 2-3, my foot lightens on the throttle enough that it just hangs around 6 grand. The car definitely loses all boost if you just shift with the hrottle off. I just ordered the CP-E intake and I will likely straight-pipe the mufflers by the time it arrives. I'll be interested to see if it makes a significant difference.
 

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So let me get this straight so I can learn something for my next drive. When shifting from 1-2, or 2-3 you actually keep pressing on the accelerator as you depress the clutch, are temporarily in neutral, and slot it into 2nd (or 3rd)?

How do the revs not shoot up to kingdom come when the clutch is disengaged?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You don't necessarily need to keep the pedal to the metal, but you do need to keep the revs high, like 6-6.5k. I found very quickly that when I closed the throttle between shifts (my normal driving style) the car lost all its boost and each new gear was greeted with momentary lag. Not only did this hamper acceleration, but it also created a disconcerting lull in thrust with each shift. Keeping the revs up eliminates the lull and maintains the pace of acceleration. In reality, you can probably keep the pedal floored and let the rev-limiter do the work for you. As I noted before, I haven't found the rev-limiter to be objectionable, perhaps because of the electronically controlled throttle. I'm also shifting right around 6k, so there's a cushion between the shift point and the rev-limiter anyway.
 

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If you keep the throttle wide open while shifting is called power-shifting and it's VERY bad for the drivetrain. It's really only used in drag racing because it can blow up your transmission in no time.
 

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If you keep the throttle wide open while shifting is called power-shifting and it's VERY bad for the drivetrain. It's really only used in drag racing because it can blow up your transmission in no time.
[/b]

When I lift off the throttle and shift at high rpm I get a thumping sound that doesn't sound or feel real good - however, if I keep the throttle wide open, the shifts seem a lot smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Technically, power shifting excludes the use of the clutch and is designed to mesh the gears by virtue of shear speed of their rotation. Keep the pedal to the floor and just yank on the shift lever. Good luck with that one!! Let me know how it works out.
Keeping your foot on the gas [while engaging the clutch] is a lot like keeping your foot on the gas with the clutch disengaged. The kind of thing you do everytime you pull away from a standstill. It's not damaging to the drivetrain, the only thing that would make it so is the manner in which the clutch is re-engaged. Power-shifting (the real thing) is definitely bad for the tranny and not something I would recommend.
 
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