rdo1953's 2003 MAZDA 6

Just replaced engine w/ AER GearHead reman engine as old engine was eating 1-2 quarts of Mobil 1 0-30 a week. Happened quick. Oil became black all the time. Power loss also. NO CEL's, no previous motor issues in past, 4-5 oil changes a yr, K&N filters every time, trans power flushed once a yr w/Mobil 1 syn. Mercon V, Wife drives car 95% of the time and she is a cupcake. PVC valve check-out OK. Klicking heared on top and lower ends. Inspection found one bad lifter at front-right cylinder and metal shavings in oil pan and around oil pickup. Rod bearings OK. Main bearings? Motor pressure checked OK to low. Did every kind of inspect possible short of motor removal and nothing serious found. Pre acts clogged and did a nice job of starting to hone out cylinders. Extented (expensive Mazda-Ford 50.00 deductable) warranty refused to pay for anything not broken and I felt the worst case risk of completely tearing down a 92k old motor, fixing one part and rebuilding 92k motor was unacceptable risk decided to go for reman motor. While engine was out had Jatco 5sp. auto inspected/ refreshed (new seals, bands, etc.) and shift plates 2-3 gear replaced. CP-E headers and cats installed. rebuilt CV. & new boots installed. PCV valve replaced. Considered wheel bearings to. Costs as follows, reman engine-2800.00, trans 1100.00, exhaust-1150.00, CV driveshafts-69.00 ea., labor 1700.00. Warranties: engine-3 yr.100k, trans-1 yr.24k, exhaust- Lifetime. Three things to consider if you are in a similar crappy position as me. 1) Do your homework on reman sources, will they reman your old motor and work w/the warranty people to possibly pay for damage found on tear down. Will they use OEM guts and can they upgrade to Clivite or King tri-metal bearings, better rings, etc. Read, read, then reread the warranty & install terms and install "must do" check list and make sure the install guys agree to follow it TO THE LETTER and sign off on every check point. Document everything and make copies. 2) Engine comes out from the bottom and the old frame bolts will be rusted/frozen in, be VERY hard to get out, and must be replaced. If labor guys don't account for this it will kill their profit. Be sure you get a hard, firm, one price written quote on labor to take out and reinstall motor.3) Jacto trans suck and runs hot all the time. I put in the biggest trans and oil coolers I could find plus a AWR comp. radiator and it still runs hot. I always felt the trans would go first. I was surprised the motor went first. If you have a 2003-2004 6 and have 70k miles replace/ remove your precats, PVC valve, coils, plugs and air filter NOW as these sub components will end up plugging precats as they wear out. If you wait for the oil loss it will be to late. If you haven't been flushing+heat managing your trans and motor, I dont see how your trans will last. It would be suicude to own this car at altitude in a hot climate zone.
The MazdaSpeed front brakes bolt right in w/the 17" factory 6S alloys. Buy MS6 calipers, hangers, then rotors, pads, and lines of choice. The stainless pad shims are NOT available separately from Mazda. Once installed you will not understand why Mazda didn't do it in the first place.