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Showcase cover image for DrFeelGoods 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon - "Mozz-D"

General Information

- Mozz-D
- 2004
- Mazda
- 6 wagon
- Performance White - A2N
- security and luxury
- Purchased July 2013 with 126,000 mi.for half of low blue book.
2004 Mazda 6s wagon with sport 5-speed automatic

Mazda 6s Wagon Profile.jpg

Racing Beat front springs - 70020
King Lowering rear springs - KMRL-27
Mazdaspeed front sway bar (27.5 mm)
Steeda rear sway bar (22.5 mm)
Steeda front upper strut bar (1-piece) - 555-5720
Megan Racing front lower chassis brace - SB-HBM6
Speedline rear floor chassis bar - M0099-02GG
Mazda RX8 18" wheels
Mazdaspeed 6 front (320mm) and rear (314mm) brakes slotted by Power Stop
Power Stop Z23 Brake Pads
StopTech stainless steel brake lines
Mazdaspeed 6 heated/folding side view mirrors
Mazda front air dam - 0000-86-H01
Mazda sport front grill - GM9A-50-710A-UK
Mazda lower fog lights - 0000-8Z-H25A
Mazda rear spoiler - GM9E-51-960B-UK
Mazda rear splash guards - 0000-88-H02
Mazda side window visors (JDM) - G21B-V4-530
Mazda clear rear tail lights - 0000-8Z-H02A (wagon)
Mazda sport exhaust tips - 0000-8R-H02
Compass auto dimming mirror with Homelink - 0000-8C-H07
Mazda rear bumper step plate - 0000-8T-H01
Mazda cargo tray - 0000-8B-H06
Mazda cargo net - 0000-8K-H02
Mazda carpet floor mats - 0000-8B-H04-A3
Mazda Integrated Fog Lamp Conversion to LED DRL (Switched, Protogé 5)
Window Tint (20% Rear side and tail, 30% Front side)
Full Interior LED lighting Conversion
Shark-fin Antennae Conversion (color matched)
Dual nitrogen hood dampers
Engine Compartment LED Work-light
Over-head Ambient Lighting (Audi A6)

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- 3.0L DOHC MZI 24-valve V6 engine
Sport AT 5-speed automatic transmission
- Beige Perforated Leather
- Mazda: air dam, sport grill, side window visor, rear spoiler, rear splash guards, sport exhaust tip, and rear bumper step protector
- OEM 6-speaker
- LED 5000K @ 55w
- Lowered 20mm
- Racing Beat front springs - 70020
- King Lowering rear springs - KMRL-27
- Mazdaspeed front sway bar (27.5 mm)
- Steeda front strut bar (1-piece) - 555-5720
- Steeda rear sway bar (22.5 mm) - 555-1058
- Megan Racing front lower chassis brace - SB-HBM6
- Speedline rear floor chassis bar - M0099-02GG
Wheel and Tire
- Mazda RX8 18"
- BF Goodrich g-Force Comp2 A/S 225/45Z-18


Rally Racer
2,671 Posts
While I was walking through the salvage yard collecting my leather bits I noticed a Mazdaspeed 6. It was not listed as it was likely confused for a 6 sedan. Engine fire had liquidated the power plant (and adjustable headlights) but left me the brakes. The almost new brakes.


Some resurfacing and caliper rebuilding.


Combine that with some new stainless steel lines and a little paint (of course)





320mm of stopping power, but don't forget the spare tire. The original wont fit over those beauties.


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24 Posts
Wow Awesome work Dr Feel Good. I have the same problem with my rear side indicators and was looking to swap them to get the clear lens Amber indicator. Any thoughts on how I can do that.

Rally Racer
2,671 Posts
Wow Awesome work Dr Feel Good. I have the same problem with my rear side indicators and was looking to swap them to get the clear lens Amber indicator. Any thoughts on how I can do that.
The part number is 0000-8Z-H02A . They are getting harder to find these days but if you dont mind paying overseas postage (thats what I did) you should still be able to get them.
Search Mazda Atenza GY tail amps

Rally Racer
2,671 Posts
Aug 2018
Changed the gauge cluster from a standard to the electroluminscent type.

One of the things that has bothered me since buying the car is, not being equipped with DRL (daytime running lights) in the US I use my headlamps all the time. As a result the instrument cluster (mileage and trip distance) is not visible. On the 2004 there is no way to override the dimmer (despite what the owners manual says). The electroluminscent assembly allows this.

The whole operation is plug-and-play with one obvious problem.... the mileage is different. That means I go from 176,863 miles down to 117,265 miles.
I have two options: make an appt.with my local inspection station (DEQ) and have an official mileage change sticker placed at the base of the B-pillar next to the VIN plate or send away for the change.
There is a company that many dealerships use for just this purpose, however, they required more than I was willing to give. In order to make the change I would have to send both assemblies, original copy of my drivers license, all postage, over $100 USD and the fastest turn-around would be 14 business days.

Well, now I just add 59,498 mi to everything I do. So much for trying to "do-the-right-thing"

The new gauges do exactly what I want and the mileage means nothing to me as I only care about intervals.
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Rally Racer
2,671 Posts
Next on the list is the strut mounts. I am still, at this point, getting a clicking/popping sound/feel when driving and the strut tops/mounts are the last thing to replace.
I also notice the thrust bearing that comes in this year vehicle has basically disintegrated on one side. While I don't have a picture of it there are 5 pieces that needed to be puzzled together for it to be reinstalled when I did the springs and strut cartridges.
There was a revision made to this part mid production so finding what (I think) I need was a little challenging, at least initially.
I decided to go with Moog parts.
Moog K160103 Problem Solver
MOOG K160103 Strut Mount.jpg
The install was pretty easy and the problem was...not... fixed.
Since I was completely unable to find the trust bearing alone it was a necessary fix anyhow.

Rally Racer
2,671 Posts
While I was under the front corner I noticed the passenger side inboard CV boot was torn. Groan.
Having had very poor luck my entire lifetime finding an aftermarket CV axle that works like OEM I decided to but buy a new OEM axle.
I find a new one on the internet from a dealer in RI and have it shipped to the opposite coast. When it arrives, it is not new.

I decide to install it anyhow.
Now the part I am skipping is trying to separate the seized axle splines from the hub.
CV axle removal puller.jpg

The largest puller I have, combined with 2 days of PB blaster soaking and pneumatic impact intervention leaves me taking the whole assembly to the machinist down the street.

He gives me to "pie-eye" look when I ask him how it went. Right about the moment I hear the answer I see the axle spindle. Completely mushroomed. There is no saving that axle. He then goes on to tell me how the other "manly" men jumped like scared kittens when it released. He says it was the loudest "bang" he has ever heard in 30 years of FWD work.
I don't feel as bad about failing with the "old college try".

Here you can see the OEM next to the factory replacement not-new-new-remanufactured axle.
Axles OEM vs OEM remanufactured.jpg

At this point I don't want to tell you this thing cost $300 USD.... oops.

I bolt the entire thing back together, back out of the driveway into the alley and take it for a drive.

Accelerating at 25% throttle in a straight line makes the axle "pop" like a child's popcorn-popping-push toy.
Fisher Price push pop.jpg

Not only do I hear it, the entire steering wheel moves with each "pop".

I drove that axle exactly 0.2mi. After pulling it out, I got to send it back to the other side of the continent...
Needless to say Tabasca (not real name) auto parts send me a full refund and paid the return postage.

Still no axle.

I hop on the bike and ride down to the nearest (I have 8 within 2 miles...yes, that part of town and proud) auto parts establishment and buy a "lifetime replacement" axle for $50 USD.

The new axle goes right in and works great!... for 47 miles.
Making the right turn out of the work driveway I hear (not at lock although I should be able to do so if I want)
Now I get the "shakes" when I accelerate. This on-throttle shake is something I know quite well from 30 years of replacing FWD axles. All the way back to the old Omni GLH.

Next Stop...salvage yard... my second home... the place I go to meditate.

A day trip and 4 ft breaker bar later, I have a new axle (and hub). The axle is out of a 2006 ATX and has the boots still intact. Perfect for a rebuild, provided the axle comes out of the hub without mushrooming (again).

I take it back to Mr. Pie-eye machinist and he saves it.

Time for the rebuild.

GP02-22-540 is the part number for the inboard boot and doing the job is a piece of cake. Messy cake but a piece of cake to rebuild.
Mazda 6s inner CV shaft parts.jpg 20190423_120940.jpg 20190423_122508.jpg

Ready for the install.

Mazda 2006 6s atx passenger rebuilt axle.jpg

One word for the win! Success!!

This axle is smooth like glass. In fact, the car has never been as smooth. 💖

Rally Racer
2,671 Posts
Oops, looks like my automatic AC control light has burned out. I know, I will replace it with LED's, that way they last for the foreseeable future.

Holy Cow! these things are bright!
20190113_170832.jpg 20190114_065700.jpg
Woah, that's 15lm of night-vision destroying photons!

I suppose the 7.5lm is more appropriate for the stock look. Indiscernible from the 5lm incandescent.